Tag Archives: panning

When to Use Different Shutter Speeds

I’ve covered shutter speed in great detail before, but recently this question popped up:

‘When would you typically use all the different shutter speeds?’

It dawned on me, that it wouldn’t hurt to provide a list of when you would typically use different shutter speeds, so here it is. Thanks to Carostory for the request. She’s taking my video training course and recently left me an awesome testimonial.

Different Shutter Speeds

You will notice that the shutter speed halves each time, which means that the exposure changes by 1 stop. There are third stops between these speed on cameras, but we’d be here all day if I went through them all.

A lot of the speeds listed below are dependant on how close the subject is to you, so bear that in mind. Also, this doesn’t really take exposure into consideration, this is purely about what you capture at these speeds.

1/4000 of a Second – Freezing really fast moving objects. Think of the sorts of things you may capture is a high-speed camera. A baseball pitch, a balloon pop, that sort of thing.

1/2000 of a Second – Freezing the flight of birds. They move their wings really fast so you have to crank up the shutter speed really high.

1/1000 of a Second - Freezing very fast moving objects, such as moving vehicles.

1/500 of a Second - This is where you will start to freeze fast moving people, such as runners and cyclists.

1/250 of a Second  - A great speed for freezing your still subject, without having to think too much about focal length and how that affects the motion blur. Great for portrait photography.

1/125 of a Second – You won’t typically want to go much slower than this if you’re shooting handheld, otherwise, you will likely capture motion blur from your hands. This is also where you will start to be able to use your shutter speed for panning.

1/60 of a Second – Again, this is a great speed for panning photography, and handheld photography in low light.

1/30 of a Second – This is about as slow as you will want to go while capturing panning photography, as much slower and your photo will become too much of a blur.

1/15 of a Second – You can mount your camera on a tripod at this speed and capture sight movement from moving objects. Think people walking, cars moving in traffic, water blurring slightly.

1/8 of a Second – Capturing motion blur in water.

1/4 of a Second – Blurred movement in a scene. Not so little that it appears accidental, but not so much that it’s hard to tell what’s going on.

1/2 of a Second – More motion blur, only much stronger than before. Think of water starting to appear like mist.

1 SecondTwilight photography. The sun may not be completely gone, but there’s not enough light to make up the exposure you’re looking for. You may incorporate a flash, and you’re more than likely using a tripod.

More than 1 Second – This is where night photography starts to come into play. You can play with different speeds and capture awesome nighttime photos.

Bulb Mode – This is used for exposures longer than 30 seconds, where you can manually control the exposure time with the shutter release. This is used for astrophotography where you may want to capture some stars. You may also use this mode for slow sync flash where you want to have immediate control of the shutter speed.

When to Use Different Shutter Speeds1 When to Use Different Shutter Speeds

How to Use Panning to Capture Moving Objects

Panning photography is something which I’ve spoken about when discussing shutter speed, but never really went into any great detail. It’s an excellent way of capturing moving objects, without the whole photo becoming a blur, by moving your camera at the same pace as your subject.

How it’s Done

Shutter Speed

The first thing you will want to do, is adjust your shutter speed to capture the movement of a subject, without freezing them. I usually find that anywhere between 1/15 of a second, and 1/200 of a second can work, it all depend on what you’re capturing, and how they’re moving.

Be careful not to go too slow though, or you’ll ruin the effect altogether.

Focus

The next step requires careful focus, because there’s a strong chance that the subject is moving slightly closer or further from you. I would suggest using AI SERVO / AF-C focus mode, because it will track the subject with the focus, and predict where they’re going to be in the time it takes for the shutter to go up.

You will typically use this mode when you’re taking multiple images of a moving subject, but it works in the same way here.

Tracking

Hold your camera correctly, and track the moment of your subject. You need a smooth, fluid motion for this photo to work. If you’re moving too fast, or too slow, then the whole photo is going to come out as a blur.

The reason panning works is because your camera is moving at the same pace as the subject, so they’re effectively still in the frame, while everything else around them is moving. This really isn’t as hard as it sounds, a lot of it comes down to your choice in shutter speed.

Speed

Like I said, the success of your photo is likely going to come down to your speed of your exposure. When your subject is nice and close to you, then if they move a foot in front of you, that’s going to take them much further across the frame than if they were 100 feet away. This means that you need a faster shutter speed for subjects that are closer to you.

Generally speaking that it.

You see, objects that are further away are often further because we can’t get as close, usually because they’re moving so fast, or they’re very large. Think of planes, trains, and automobiles. This photo below was taken at 1/160 of a second, because I was also in  a moving vehicle, moving at roughly the same pace.IMG 8715 How to Use Panning to Capture Moving Objects

Flash

There’s no reason why you’ve can’t add a flash to your photo, and start implementing some of the slow sync flash techniques that I go into detail about here.

You set off the flash at the beginning of the exposure to freeze the motion, and then you carry on as you would with any other panning photo.

Using a flash can really help if you’ve only just started learning this technique, because you can adjust your shutter speed using bulb mode. If you put your camera into manual, go all the way past 30 seconds, you will reach bulb mode. This means that for as long as you hold down the shutter, the exposure will continue. You simply set the exposure for the flash, and you can vary the length of shutter speed, depending on how fast your subject is moving.Outlook 2011 10527 How to Use Panning to Capture Moving Objects

Troubleshooting

If you’re having trouble getting this to work, then chances are that you’re either not using the right shutter speed, or you’re messing up the focus.

Shutter speed is key, because the longer you set it to, the higher the probability of everything going wrong. I suggest faster speeds if you’re struggling.

Focus is a big issue, especially when you’re trying to track a subject’s movement before they get close to you to take a photo. If you do have a problem, then I would suggest switching to manual focus with a narrow aperture, and waiting for your subject to come into a certain point before taking the photo.

That’s it!

Lets see your photos! Leave a comment below, or leave a link on the fan page under the correct link, or post it on the wall. If you’re copying straight from Facebook, please remember to copy the image location/URL and not just the link in the address bar.

You can follow the progress of this project on FacebookTwitter and Pinterest.How to Use Panning to Capture Moving Objects How to Use Panning to Capture Moving Objects

30 Day Photography Challenge Project

This is my brand new 30 day photography challenge, and I want YOU to take part too. For my next 30 posts, I’m going to be providing you with tips on how to take the photos that I’ve listed here, and sharing my own results (and I encourage you to share yours too).

Starting today, I will be posting 5 posts a week on here, as well as over on my Facebook page, Twitter and Pinterest.

As I complete the project, I will be posting links to the different photos and tips as I complete them, and the days below will turn from black to blue (links). Follow through the links for tips on how to take part yourself.

Take Part

If you want to take part yourself, then just come over to my Facebook page, Twitter and/or Pinterest, and share your photos with me and the rest of the community. The best photos will be added to the posts, and shared with tens of thousands of people.

That’s all you need to know really, hope you enjoy these different ideas; they will certainly help you to improve your photography.

The Challenge

Day 1: Self Portrait - Complete! – Your photos added.

Day 2: Rule of Thirds - Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 3: Black & White - Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 4: Texture - Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 5: High Angle  – Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 6: Low Angle - Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 7: Silhouette - Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 8: Sunset - Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 9: Bokeh - Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 10: Lens Flare – Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 11: Landscape - Complete! - Your photos added.

Day 12: Portrait - Complete!

Day 13: Dynamic Tension - Complete!

Day 14: Light Painting - Complete!

Day 15: Colorful Water Drops - Complete!

Day 16: Balanced - Complete!

Day 17: Unbalanced - Complete!

Day 18: Frame within a Frame - Complete!

Day 19: Panorama - Complete!

Day 20: Depth - Complete!

Day 21: Water Splash - Complete!

Day 22: Slow Sync Flash - Complete!

Day 23: Panning - Complete!

Day 24: Harris Shutter - Complete!

Day 25: Shallow DoF - Complete!

Day 26: Light Graffiti - Complete!

Day 27: Street Photography - Complete!

Day 28: Architecture

Day 29: Night - Complete!

Day 30: Hidden Camera Mirror Photo - Complete!

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